Wednesday, February 1, 2012

St. Augustine to Marathon Key


St Augustine skyline view from masthead


January 15, 2012.  In early December Quinn and I thought we were going to bring the boat further down the Florida coast, say about West Palm Beach, so we would be positioned in January after the Christmas rush to either head over to the Abacos or down to Key West.  As it turned out, we were on the boat for two weeks and it was never untied from the dock.  It was one of those cases where everything we tried to fix on the boat that week prior to the planned departure, went upside down.  At the end of the two weeks work, we left with more projects than we started with.  We fixed the refrigerator, three days later it completely blew up.  We put on the referbished windlass, three days later we completely blew it up. Before we left, the fresh water accumulator tank blew up; o.k. actually nothng blew up, it just developed a leak, but it still had to be replaced.  We had some mast-head work to do and after a couple of attempts, it never worked out.  With all of that, we still got a chance to see some of St. Augustine and eat some good food.   Anyway, we went home, enjoyed Christmas, regrouped and headed back Jan. 15th. 

Things went much better this time.  We now have a completely new refrigeration system that works just like it should.  I would highly recommend Hansen Marine Services in St Augustine for refrigeration work.  That caused us to need to beef up our battery system, and after installing a new starting battery bank (which was much more complex than expected), we are pleased with the finished product.  After four days on the dock, we tore ourselves away on day five.  From then on we made good time heading south.  Because of all the system, electrical and mechanical changes we had made, we decided to stay inside on the ICW for the first couple of days as a sort of sea-trial.  Everything worked fine.

At Cape Canaveral we headed out to the Atlantic again and were able to make some good overnight passages. 

Arriving Port Canaveral barge canal at dusk.
January 20, 2012.  We hopped in at Fort Lauderdale (Port Everglades) and stayed at the Municipal Marina for a couple of nights seeing the sights and food of Ft. Lauderdale.  We were actually docked one block from the famed "strip" on the beach. The last time I was there I thought it was great.  Funny what 30 years can do to "the strip". Either they got dumber or I got smarter. For sure they got younger and I got older.

Gov. ships at Port Canaveral

Sunday morning about noon we pulled out of Ft. Lauderdale Los Olas Marina and went to another marina to top off the fuel tank.  We took on about 22 gals of diesel and then headed out under the 17street bridge which we can make without having to lift the bridge.  The bridge is 55 feet and our main mast is only 48 feet with a few feet additional for antenas, anemometer, and windex gear.  We passed all the big homes and super yachts that adorn Ft. Lauderdale and headed out to sea at 1200 hrs. 
Leaving Ft. Lauderdale
That would give us 24 hours to make Marathon at 120 miles and give us a worst case ETA of 1200 hrs the next day.  That puts in a new harbor entrance at high-noon so there are not any hidden surprises.  As it turned out, we made great time and arrived in Martathon at 0800 hrs and were tied up at Burdines at 0830. 
We were met by a good friend and sailor, Bob Mcdonald who had left Gulf Shores and came down the Gulf of Mexico to Marathon about the same time that we left St. Augustine.  Since he had gotten there a few days earlier, he had discovered that most of the marinas and especially the municipal mooring balls were all booked up.  I knew there were lots of northern boats coming south for the winter, many from Canada, New York and the Chesapeake, because we had seen and met many of them on our way down the East Coast during the last two months.  I just didn't know that they were all going to Marathon.  Bob spent a few days searching the out-of-the-way marinas and found a contact that happened to personally own a couple of slips in Burdines harbor, and he was willing to let us stay there for a reasonable price.  It was also a bonus that this guy was a well known diesel mechanic in the area, and was able to help us with a waterpump issue that was developing on the boat, although it had not run hot to this point. 

Burdines dock and front porch. We tied up here
when we first came in.

Burdines at dusk

Burdines services
I finally felt like we had arrived in "island time" when we got to Burdines.  When we first tied up at the dock we were met by two good old lazy dock dogs and a fella with an Alabama #1 cap on.  As soon as he saw the Gulf Shores, AL on the transom of the boat we got a blast of "Rooooolllll Tide!! This guy came down here for a vacation several years ago, and just forgot to go home. Now he is on island time. 
Bob and Quinn at City Marina, Marathon
This is a great little marina with solid docks and good access to stores and restaurants.  The only negative might be that the docks are not floating, and the finger piers and pilings are fairly short, so the stern of the boats tend to stick out without much protection.
Tied up with "Windy City" our friend from Gulf Shores.  Of
course he was originally from Chicago and has been everywhere.

Burdines marina off of Boot Key harbor in Marathon.
We were able to get a slip next to Bob's boat "Windy City" and that made it a good visit.  Bob also had a couple of bikes and we were able to borrow another bike and tour the island on bikes.  He has spent about 5 winters in Marathon on his boat, so he knew where the best restaurants were, and of course, West Marine.  We joke that we would be a great ad for West Marine in that we have come all the way down the East coast hopping from store to store where they are located in each port. 
A romp in the Gulf Stream with all sails up

Point South, Cuba 80 miles.

Sailing out of Marathon for a day-sail
January 24, 2012.  On Tuesday Quinn and I couldn't stand it that we were in such beautiful sailing territory, and here we were tied up to four poles.  We decided to go for a day-sail and explore the territory and get some good sailing in with the blue sky and 15 knot favorable winds.  We headed out South about 5 miles to Sombrero Key Light, a 142 foot tower, and then sailed another 10 miles south in the Gulf Stream directly towards Havana.  With the favorable winds that we had, we could have been in Havana by 0800 the next morning.  Though that may have been fairly easy to do, we were concerned about the leaving part that might be problematic.  With that, we turned around and just enjoyed the raucous romp back across the Gulf Stream and back into Hawk Channel to Marathon.
Marathon City Marina


After we got back to Marathon and tied up comfortably, it didn't take long to get into the spirit of "island time".  The days start with breakfast, then a nap, then lunch, then a nap....
New curtins in the aft cabin. 
Oiled teak woodwork project
I did have a few projects that I wanted to complete and fortunately Bob McDonald had a MastClimber kit which allows an individual to climb up the mast without a deck crew on the winches.  I love that thing, and I do believe it is safe, if you take your time.  We put up some new curtains that we purchased at Sailor's Exchange in St. Augustine, oiled the teak and did some engine maintenance work which included a new impeller in the sea water pump and cleaning out the heat exchanger. Then we put on the pig-stick!

OneEighty"s private Pennant
5'x8"
O.K., about the pig-stick.  A pig stick is a flag mast that the old sailors used to haul up on the mainmast to fly the ships pennant.  On the old square riggers, the pennants could be as long as 90 feet, but of course that wouldn't be practical on OneEighty.  The private pennant is a pennant made for a particular ship/captain and flys from the masthead.  Masthead of the main mast is considered the second most prestigous place for flag flying on a ship.  The number one spot, and reserved for the country flag, in our case the the US ensign is flown from the mizzen gaff, or on modern ships, the stern of the ship.  Next in line is off the starboard spreader.  That's where we fly the club burgee.  Well, since we didn't have a private ship's pennant, I decided to make one last month back in Birmingham and sewed some 1/2 ounce dacron spinnaker material with my handy sewing maching and made a red pennant with a yellow "pelican in her piety" emblem.  It is 5 feet long by 8 inches.  I got this idea from Bob McDonald who saw one on a schooner when he was with us in the Chesapeake, only he was smart enough not to try and put a sock up there with all the other moving parts on the masthead. You'll have to read midieval history to learn the whole story of the pelican, but in short, it became a symbol of Christianity because it was believed that the mother Pelican would prick her breast to feed her young chicks her blood in the nest to keep them from starving.  That symbol was later used as part of the Scottish Stewart Crest.  This symbolized the blood of Christ to save mankind.  Anyway, I made the flag and tested it, but still wait to fly it on that perfect day when we have the perfect wind on the perfect sea with white sails set against the blue sky and sunbeams shimmering in the emerald green water foaming white as the bow is driven through each wave by a brisk warm breeze.  Thats when I plan to put the flag up. It serves no purpose to make the boat go, and will probably get hung up on some of the gadgets that are mounted up on the mainmast top, but I figure I will try it at least once. It looks pretty and has salty history. It is made of red and yellow because I want the chaps from Scotland to be able to see it. 
Testing new "pig-stick"
with the private Pennant flying

January 27, 2012.  As great as Paradise is, it finally became time to head home.  We both have wives and lives that need attending.  We tied up OneEighty with good long lines so that she would accept a broad range of high and low tides as well as high wind speeds.  Fortunately Bob McDonald is staying and will be right beside One Eighty for the next month, so he had graciously agreed to look after her.  That gives us a great comfort in leaving her here for a short while. 

5 a.m. leaving the boat to head home

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Chesapeake to St. Augustine, Leg 4

White Stone, VA October 2, 2011.  Susie, Chase and I have visited my good friend Jim Hatch a few days and now we are pushing off today heading South to Hampton Roads and Newport News Virginia.  We had left the boat there for about a month while we went home, and now we are back to continue the trip.  We contemplated moving in with Jim thinking that he wouldn't realize we were in the house for weeks.  Its time to sail.  We have several days to do a short trip, but that's just what we want so we can spend some time exploring the Chesapeake Bay sailing at our leisure with our son, Chase, who has flown in from Denver, CO.  The weather isn't cooperating perfectly in that it is raining and a cold front has moved in. The 50 mile sail down the Chesapeake Bay is bumpy and cold today, but we put up the side curtins and Susie bundles up in warm clothes, and we make it fine. 
Tied up at Jim's dock getting ready for the trip
Jim's little cottage viewed from the dock.

 As we headed West into Mobjack Bay towards an anchorage we had heard about, we cranked the engine so we could head into the wind up into the bay.  What I noticed was that the engine was not driving the boat at the power and speed that it should, and at max trottle it was only running at 1200 rpm. and the engine started running hot. We dropped the anchor at 1920 hrs, cooked dinner and then settled in to a quiet night on the hook. 

Chase and Susie are reading their e-books, i-pads and i-phones which really helps save the boat's batteries by not having so many bright lights on.  After anchoring the night in a beautiful secluded spot in the East River off Mobjack Bay, we headed out again.  Engine still not working well.  We then re-anchored the boat and I put on the wet-suit and went overboard to check out the prop and shaft.  What I found was that in the one month that we had been in salt water, we had accumulated enough barnacles on the prop and shaft to make it remarkably inefficient.  After 30 minutes of chipping the prop clean, we headed out again with full power.  I learned a lesson that this Max-prop has to be very clean in order to work well. 

We sailed the day and at 1600 hrs on 10-3-ll we tied up at the Yorktown Yacht Haven Marina.  This is a very nice marina with top notch facilities, floating docks, ship's store and one of the best restaurants on the Chesapeake.  Next day we headed out and sailed south to Hampton Roads, VA., a beautiful port  and historic town. 
Hampton VA docks facing
 the Space & Rocket Center
One thing about the Chesapeake Bay is that it is full of big ships.  As we entered the main ship channel coming into Newport News/Norfolk harbor we had an encounter with a freighter that was bearing down on us.  Our strategy:  stay in shallow water (20 feet) and the ship which draws 36 feet could not reach us.  Then, after he passed we headed back into the channel. 

Chase on watch in the Chesapeake
Chase is standing watch on the freighter.  With the AIS electronics we have on board, we are able to see exactly where that ship is in relation to us, it's speed, name, radio call sign, and calculated point and time of collision if we didn't move.  Pretty interesting software. We keep in mind that freighter props are as large as our boat and could make jello out of fiberglass.
Quinn and Helen at the helm
On ll/5/11 Chase flew out of Newport News VA airport and headed back to Colorado... from sailing to skiing.  The next day, Quinn and Helen flew in to Newport News and we crewed up for the next leg of the trip. 
On the 7th of October, with fresh crew and stores, we headed out passed Norfolk and then South via the Dismal Swamp to Elizabeth City NC. 



Norfolk Navy Yard



Nolfolk was most impressive with miles and miles of Navy Ships of all sizes and purpose lining both shorelines for 15 miles.  There were two aircraft carriers sitting side by side at the beginning of the harbor, each as big as a city.  It would seem to me that the Navy could spend all of the military budget just keeping all the ships in and out of drydock. 






Charlie & Susie Sailing Albermale Sound




Most of  this was motoring in the ditch except for crossing Albermarle and Pamlico Sounds, where we got some good sailing in.   This inside (ICW) route is a popular route around the "graveyard of the Atlantic" off the coast of North Carolina.  We bypassed Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout and stayed inside until we got to Cape Fear, NC. 

Along the way we visited Elizabeth City NC on the 7th of October where we met Bill and Mary on board "Easy Going" from New Bern NC and they made some restaurant and marina recommendatios that were their favorites in the area.  We had a good sail across Albarmarle Sound with NE winds at 8-12 kts. 
Stopped in Gator River Marina for fuel and pumpout and since we didn't like the lady that ran the place, (bad attitude) we left there and headed to the South end of Gator River to an anchorage in Stump Bay on Saturday, October 8th .  Alabama was playing Vanderbelt that evening at 6:30 so we got the anchor set, cooked dinner and got the ballgame on the XM radio.  Life couldn't get any better.  October 9, 2011.  Today is Quinn's birthday, so we sang a song and he got to pull the anchor up.  Birthday or not.  We motored most of the day through the Pungo ditch, out into the Pamlico Sound for some sailing, and then arrived in River Dunes Marina.  River dunes is a very luxurous marina/resort, out in the middle of nowhere, about 5 miles by car from Oriental, NC.    The marina did loan us a car and we drove into Oriental for dinner at a real restaurant. 

In tall cotton
Our next stop was Beaufort (Bo' fort in NC) which was one of the neatest port towns of this part of the trip.  Beaufort has a long history of fishing and sailing ships, and today is a town full of boats of all sizes and shapes and destinations and origins.  We stayed two nights in the Beaufort Docks municipal marina, and we were one of the smallest boats in there, at 42 feet.  We were literally surrounded by large motor yachts ranging from 85 to 125 feet flying either US or foreign port flags. 




Beaufort City Docks

Charlie at Maritime Museum, Beaufort NC

Town of Beaufort

10-12-11 Still in Beaufort and today we changed oil in the boat engine.  Met a guy, Bob Tilly,  at the breakfast restaurant who had a car and offered to take us to the auto parts place so we could by oil and filter and then he drove us back to the boat.  Since it was raining that day, we were glad he made the offer.  Bob was a retired Methodist preacher and US Army Colonel, and Mr. Conservative.  We got along well. In Beaufort we also met Bob Fine who is another Pearson 424 owner and was bringing another boat south, "Usra Minor", a 56 foot Krogan. 

On 10/12/11, we departed Beaufort at 0800 headed South to Wrightsville Beach and Cape fear.
At 1730 that night we anchored at Topsail Beach at mile marker #86 off the ICW. 

Wrightville Beach Municipal Marina
Quinn and Helen
On the 13th we were up at 0730, breakfast and off to Wrightsville beach.  The Wrightsville bridge only opens on the hour, and we were 5 minutes late, so we waited 55 minutes.  Got fuel, ice and overnight dockage at the Wrightville Docks marina.  Had dinner at Blue Water Restaurant.  Good, but not great.  Expensive, though.  Made up for it with Breakfast the next morning 10/14/11 at the Causeway Cafe.  A great hole-in-the-wall cafe.  We walked 1.5 miles to Harris Teeter and West Marine for groceries & supplies and then got a cab back to the boat.






10/14/11  Headed to Bald Head Island at the mouth of the Cape Fear Atlantic inlet. 
Bald Head Lighthouse, 1817
The first night there we stayed in the Bald Head Island marina and took a short bike and walking trip around parts of the Island.  The Bald Head Lighthouse, originally built in 1794 was damaged by erosion and demolished and the one we see today was rebuilt in 1817. http://www.lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=349





Southport Marina
As beautiful as Bald Head Island was, it's marina is just as rolly.  With the West winds howling across the Cape Fear inlet, we decided to move about 3 miles inland to the Southland Marina which was better protected. There we were close to a real town with groceries and restaurants, and the boat was not constantly rolling.  We were also on the mainland which made it possible for Bob McKay do drive up from Birmingham in a rental car, and that would allow Susie and Helen to drive back to Birmingham in the same car, with a "local" rental.  Much cheaper, and we were able to get a car in a remote area. 





On October 16, 2011, 0900 Quinn, Bob McKay and I head out the Cape Fear Pass out into the Atlantic to make passage to Charleston, SC. 






Schooner, Spirit of South Carolina in Charleston
Maritime Harbor. 

Bob McKay looking over the Battery
in Charleston Harbor
We sailed all that day, all night and arrived in Charleston Harbor at the Charleston Maratime Marina at 0920 on October 17.  Walked all over town and had dinner at the Noisy Oyster restaurant, mainly because it was the closest walk from the boat. 


Checked the weather and the forecast was for Westerly winds 25 to 30 for that next afternoon and night with gale force winds (35+) for the next day.  With that forecast, we decided not to go off shore but to make time in the ICW.  Glad we did.  It blew all day and we saw some 40kt winds during the day, and we were in protected water.  Made our way just outside Beaufort SC (pronunced Beau fort) and anchored in Mulligan Creek at mm#530 three miles from Beaufort. 
10/18/11 0800 Pulled anchor up by hand, well, Quinn and Bob pulled it up.  I was at the wheel.  The anchor windlass stopped working and now we have to pull up all the line, chain and a 60#CQR up manually.  More about the windless later.  Then we ran aground trying to get out of the creek at LOW tide.  In these parts the tide drops 8 feet and we were in the mud.  Finally got off (tide was rising) and we missed the Beaufort bridge opening by 5 minutes.  Had to wait for the 10:00 opening.  That worked and then we immediately made the Beaufort City Marina downtown at 1020.  Very strong currents at about 4-5 kts and about 18 kts of wind really didn't help the docking.  Docked anyway, and though I thought I laid her in easy to the dock, but, we got a long scratch down the waterline where the floating dock caught her.
I hate it when that happens!!! I can put every scratch on the hull on the map where it happened.  Never get scratches or bumps at sea, that only happens close to hard things.  The moral:  stay at sea. With fuel, pumpout and ice, we are headed out again.  Hopefully the wind will die down some so we can get out to sea from here.  We motored in the ICW to Bull Creek just off Hilton Head Island, where we dropped anchor at 1730 for the night.  We are 10 miles from the Savanah River which puts us back out into the Atlantic, if the weather improves.  Ran aground two more times at low tide that day in the ICW.

Bob and Quinn at the helm
Bumpy seas and 25kt winds
Bob checking out the beaches
On Saturday, 10/19/11 at 1200 hrs, we finally are at the Savanah River entrance sea bouy and set course to 205 degrees to Jacksonville Florida.  Winds are still high, WSW at 20 to 25 with gusts to 29.  Seas are confused at 6 to 8 feet.  We put up a reefed jib and mizzen, no main.  As soon as we got the mizzen up she balanced and set into the sea like a good boat should.  It was a bumpy ride, but the boat handled it great.  It was exciting, but safe.  Sailed all day beating to the wind on a close reach.  At 1900 hrs. we turned the engine on so we could keep the boat pointed on the rhumb line without falling too far off course in the night.  During the night the winds subsided to 16 to 20 kts. and the seas laid down some.  We set 3 hour watches starting at 2100 hrs. with Bob on first watch.   At 2400 hrs Quinn came on watch, and at 0300 I came on.  The winds had come around more to the West by then so we killed the engine and sailed beautifully and quietly at 6 kts all morning until we reached the Jacksonville ship channel.  By 1030 we had reached the Intracostal Waterway (ICW) and again were heading South looking for a marina that we felt comfortable with leaving the boat for an extended period while we came home.  We found that place in St. Augustine, and by 1530 we were tied up at the Rivers Edge Marina on the San Sebastian River, St. Augustine 
http://www.29riversedgemarina.com/
View from masthead down

Bob McKay making windvane calibrations,
up there.
The date is Saturday, October 22, so Alabama must be playing Tennessee.....and they did, especially the second half.  Again, thanks to having XM radio on the boat we were able to get the game in living sound.   We had planned on driving home on Sunday, so that gave us a day to do some work on the boat.  What you have to realize is, when you take your house and pound it on waves in salt water for extended periods of time, things break and corrode.  Remember, our anchor windlass stopped working back in Hilton Head.  Today we took it apart and off the boat so we could bring it home for some repair work.  What we found was that the bearings and gears had suffered from saltwater intrusion, and we will have to replace them.  We also took the opportunity to go up the mast in the boswain's chair to repair a few items up there.  First we put a new L.E.D. anchor light up top.  That will greatly reduce future problems with bulbs, and reduce battery consumption by about 80 percent for that light which has to stay on all night.  Next, we had a short in the "steamer" light which is the white light up at about spreader height.  Then, we had to calibrate the wind meter with the annemometer that sits on top of the mast.  All that done, we came down, cleaned up, and went into town to see historic St. Augustine and get some dinner. 


Before
   As for the windlass, here is the "before" picture compared with the picture "after" we refurbished it; new bearings, sand and paint, new bushings, new bolts, rebuilt motor, and new gaskets.  The windlass was built in Gasglow Scotland, so some of the parts had to be shipped from there.  Hopefully it is ready to go back on the boat for some dependable service.
Ready to go back on the boat
Cleaned up with new gear bearings
New paint and main-shaft bearings

To see all the pictures go to: